Monday, March 31, 2014

A month in Bucerias,Mexico

Well our time in Progreso was over and three months went quickly so we were now moving from the Yucatan peninsula to the west coast of Mexico. We left Progreso early our last day and decided to spend our last night at the Gran Hotel in Merida as we love the city in the night time.

The Gran Hotel is one of the oldest hotels in Merida and must have indeed been a grand lady in her time. She is a little worn around the edges but still impressive...

Here is an interior shot of the hotel...legend has it that Fidel Castro and Che Guevara stayed here as well.

Merida comes alive in the evening when it is cooler and the streets are filled with people...

Not a great shot but it is in the Grand Plaza which is the main square in front of the Cathedral. If you could see there are lots of people strolling, sitting and enjoying the evening. One of the best things about winters in Mexico is being able to sit out and enjoy the warm night air.
 
We left early on March 1 to take a taxi to the airport to catch a flight to Puerto Vallarta and good thing we were early. I had booked our flights on a budget Mexican airline and when we arrived they told us our flight from Merida to Mexico City was on time but the other flight from Mexico Ciry to Puerto Vallarta was cancelled. So after several conversations they booked us on another airline and we actually got to our destination earlier which was a lot better than the first answer saying we had to stay overnight in Mexico City. I find being polite but persistent usually solves the problem.
Here is a map of Mexico that shows Merida in the Yucatan Peninsula and Puerta Vallarta on the west coast...
We chose this area because we had never been on the Pacific Side and had heard many good things about it. There was also an International airport in PV so family could fly in easily. We decided that we wanted a small town so we settled on a place called Bucerias...meaning the Place of Divers which was about 20 kms north of PV.
The centrepiece of this area is the Bay of Banderas and the coastline that runs along its shores. It is about 100 kms long and sits at the base of the Sierra Madre mountains. The landscape is much greener and lush than the Yucatan and the temperatures are a bit milder.
Here in Bucerias there are lots of green spaces and lovely flowers...
A house just down the street from us. We are renting a house in an upscale neighbourhood that has many huge homes with lovely gardens.
The streets for some reason I can't figure out are almost all cobblestones so very difficult walking and driving. This is the street by our house running downhill to the beach which is about 5 minutes walk.
We are located on the very edge of town on the same street as an all inclusive resort, the only one in town. It is called the Royal Decameron and we have talked to people who have been coming to stay here for years.
Our time here has been very laid back as we had company for most of the time...
Dawn and Matt came for a week and enjoyed their time here, especially the great food.
Though sometimes we ate in with Matt being the chef and me being the dishwasher...here he is BBQing fish with a headlamp.
 

There were lots of days on the beach enjoying a cold beverage...

 

And time cooling off in the pool....

 

The beach here is lovely, quite long for walking and very few people...

When Dawn and Matt left Anne Marie, Mike, Cooper and Quinn arrived and our quiet existence was shattered!

 

There were nice mornings on the beach but when the wind came up in the afternoon there was the pool...
 
Pop was always ready with the water gun and him and Cooper had many fights!

Quinn was really brave and even jumped in the pool without her water wings!

Also time to relax.

So thankful for an IPAD!

And go to Feliz Hora! Cooper's choice of beverage was Orange Fanta...

And it seems everyone is enjoying their papas frites...

 

However with two small children it was easier to eat at home with lots of great vegetables available...

And Quinn enjoying her bananas...

 

Since it was hot we didn't go far but managed a few walks around town with the kids in the double stroller.

 

Bucerias is a very different town than Progreso in that it has many amenities for tourists while Progreso has few! The town has about 5000 people and is separated by a highway where the area closest to the beach is filled with foreigners and the area away from the beach is where the local Mexicans live. The town looks like a holiday destination yet there is still a local feel to the place.

There are lots of places for tourists to shop...

 
To have a spa treatment...
The town is full of art galleries and each Thursday night there is an art walk when the galleries open their doors offering beverages and snacks to encourage visitors to walk in...
Fabulous art everywhere!
There are also lots of activities so I did Yoga for a month at one of the local studios across the highway. Anne Marie and Dawn joined me while they were here and we enjoyed it a lot. However when we were there it was difficult to concentrate because we were on the main highway and this was our view...
 

A huge Marilyn outside the local gym and our favourite French pastry and coffee shop where we stopped every day on our way home from yoga.

As in most Mexican towns there is a central square around which much of life revolves...

 

There is always a church...

Lots of food stands..

Bars...

And all the drugs one would need...

 

It is also separated by a river which at this time of year is dry but everyone has to pass over the kissing bridge...

 

There are still signs of the slower side of life as we often saw horses and their owners on the streets

And at the beach especially on the weekends the Mexican kids enjoying themselves, here they are chasing sea snakes so waiting for them to come ashore.

The town has many great restaurants, both Mexican and International...here we are on our last night enjoying a meal in the courtyard of a Greek restaurant.

 

Overall we really enjoyed our time in Bucerias and can see why many ex pats make their homes here and why the area receives so many visitors each year. We would definitlely recommend this coast as a destination for someone looking to experience Mexico without roughing it!

 

 

Saturday, March 29, 2014

A couple of west coast towns....Puerto Vallarta and Sayulita

While spending time in Bucerias ( blog post coming) we had the opportunity to visit two nearby towns, one being Puerto Vallarta and the other Sayulita.

We took the local bus south to Puerto Vallarta which is the biggest town or city on this stretch of the Pacific Coast. I always enjoy the bumpy ride of the local buses and and the onboard entertainment usually a singer or musician looking to make a few pesos. I didn't get a picture of the guy on the bus that day but he was blind and playing the harmonica.

But here is a picture of the front of the bus with the wooden change box and always a religious object...

 

Puerto Vallarta has around 200,000 plus population and has been a tourist destination for many years. It is a cruise ship port and the first time I ever heard of it was when I used to watch The Love Boat on tv!

We spent the day downtown in Centro visiting some of beautiful churches that are often the nicest buildings in town and a respite from the heat...

This church was on the town square...

The bandstand which is usually full of people was being used for a political demonstration, however the benches in the shade were full. I think every town should have a town square but unfortunately in our climate we wouldn't be sitting out much!

Much of downtown is a pedestrian only street which makes for pleasant strolling,it was clean as well.

The malecon which is an Oceanside walk was quite long with fabulous sculptures along the way...

 

Also lots of artists, this guy seems to like Frida...

 

A view back along the bay...

Don had a drink with the sand men.

It was nice to see some Mexican families enjoying a stroll as well. I often think when I am visiting another country what the locals must think of us as in many places like here foreigners are in the majority.

There were lots of vendors trying to make a living while this man was enjoying his solitude under the umbrella.

The streets are cobblestone and they are straight up to the hills.

Most of the hills seem to be filled with new condos.

There were lots of people finding their beach chair for the day.

And it wouldn't be a beach town without brightly coloured things to sell...


We did a lot of walking, claimed a chair on the beach for a drink and then took the bus back to Walmart, bought a few groceries and then got the Bucerias bus back home.

Our impressions of PV...nice area to visit for a short holiday but not to stay for long.

Another day we took the local bus north to Sayulita about 25 kms over the mountains and down into the valley on very windy and dusty roads...

This was the first town we have visited in Mexico that was filled with young travellers, there were a few older folks but this is a surf and party town in the middle of no where. Over the last 10-15 years this sleepy town of 5000 has been transformed into a hot place to visit.

The beach is not as nice as Bucerias but it has gentle surf that draws beginner surfers to its waters.

 

Waiting for the waves...

Lots of surfboards...

 

Luxury villas in the hills
 

The quieter end of the beach surrounded by trees and mountains.

The town is a mix of old and new but definitely still a Mexican town.

 

 

There was the town square...

 

The little church...

And a liquor store with Don's name on it...

We even found someone to cut our hair, she has one chair and one wall socket but she did a good job!

There seemed to be all that one would need here including a book store. We also saw a lavanderia, a fruit stand, a small mercado and plenty of places to eat.

We were only there for a day but loved the colors and sights in the town...

 

 

A place we would spend some more time and think that it would be very relaxing here, definitely a travel recommendation.

What is there not to like about Mexico?